The trail running sneaker, New Balance MT580 has been rare in the US since it was made exclusively for Mita Japan, but now here’s the good news - it is already a main stay in the country! It comes in three colorways where Black and Grey shades dominate, with the ABZORD cushioning and ROLLBAR technologies for comfort and heel stability. Check them out at your favorite New Balance retailer.
Here comes another breakthrough on sneakers with printed uppers. The Nike Air Force 1 Supreme brings you a simple yet rocking colorway of Dark Obsidian/White. The leather upper with splattered elephant print design is seen throughout the sneaker with a Dark Obsidian sidewall, a White Swoosh and out-sole. This is more likely the same with the Air Force 1 High Supreme previously released. You can find this printed AF1 at Nike accounts.
Omaha sneaker artist Gabriel Horton was featured in my post yesterday about the Jay-Z vs. Lil Wayne Air Force Ones. Horton went for a darker theme on the Crazy Clown Air Force Ones, leaving behind superstars in favor of creepy murderous clowns. The haunting clown face looking back at you took five hours to complete, an amazing feat considering the details involved in this customization.
Horton’s depiction of an evil clown includes blue stringy hair, dead eyes and skin with an unhealthy beige hue. The exterior sides of the Crazy Clown Air Force Ones feature ear-to-ear images of the clown to give us perspective on the monster in question. A look at the interior sides, however, show the crazy clown’s intent as he bears his vicious teeth for all to see.
I love the blood drops used throughout the shoe to set the right mood for the viewer. Horton used red blood drops on the toe, heel and the clown’s face to drive home the fact that no one should get near this clown. The Crazy Clown Air Force Ones are available right now in size 12 for $150 though customers can ask for this design in another size. You can scare your friends and family members with a hot custom by Gabriel Horton by emailing msnim:chat?contact=service1978@hotmail.com.
The Air Jordan 2.5 was released in a plethora of colorways earlier this year, and many found the sneaker to be quite attractive due to its resemblance with the Air Jordan III (3) and the Air Jordan II (2). Now, Jordan Brand is set to release the AJ 2.5 in more colorways, but these colorways will all release in a 5/8th cut rather than the typical mid cut. The upcoming releases include a white/metallic silver-court blue pair which is similar to the “True Blue” Air Jordan 3, and a black/university blue-white pair which is similar to an Air Jordan Fusion 3 (AJF3) which released last year. All six colorways, which will retail for $115, can be seen after the ‘jump’ along with the corresponding tech information.
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 04/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-042
Colorway: Black-University Blue-White
Retail Price: $115.00
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 04/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-061
Colorway: Black/Varsity Red
Retail Price: $115.00
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 04/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-104
Colorway: White/Metallic Silver-Black-Cement Grey
Retail Price: $115.00
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 06/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-106
Colorway: White/Metallic Silver-Court Blue
Retail Price: $115.00
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 06/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-002
Colorway: Black/Black
Retail Price: $115.00
Air Jordan 2.5 Team 5/8
Release Date: 06/01/2009
Style Number: 343044-103
Colorway: White/Metallic Silver-Varsity Red-Cement Grey
Retail Price: $115.00
I know you are tired of all Unkle replicas customizer did. But El Cappy Customz put it to a new level. I love this pair of dunks. These are the viotech dunk low colors mixed in with the dunkles and it come out beautiful. He did all FREEHAND -no stencils. Unbelievebale. This is what I call a clean work. Give us more of these great customs…
One area of sneakerology we’ve somehow managed to avoid is the vital area of laces. Personally, we keep ours loose and we prefer cotton over nylon, other than that, it’s straight vanilla round here – no crazy lattice switchups or duo-colour checkerboards. Recently however, we were introduced to ian fieggen (aka Professor Shoelace) and were humbled by his academic knowledge of this black art. The p-rof has created, without doubt, the best shoelace website in the universe www.jordan-ugg.com Here, he laments his latent love of laces and introduces fifteen of his personal favourite ways of rigging rides, including helpful diagrams. Then we learn how to modify your aglets to the correct length and tie his very own ‘ian’ knot, the world’s fastest way of shackling sneaks. Just don’t mention velcro or boondoggles! (not.)
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The laces then go straight up and are fed into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 3. The ends are crossed over and are fed under the vertical lace section on the opposite sides of the shoe before going straight up and into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. At the top set of eyelets, the laces can once again cross over and pass under the straight section as shown. This not only looks consistent with the rest of the lacing but also forms a High Lace Lock, which tightens the lacing even more firmly.
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are looped back under the lace where it feeds under the side of the shoe 3. The ends are then crossed over each other, then they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. Steps 2 and 3 are repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets.
1. The lace runs straight across the second set of eyelets from the top of the shoe 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the fourth set of eyelets, skipping the third set 3. Continue down the shoe, two sets of eyelets at a time 4. At the bottom, run the laces vertically between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets 5. Double back and work your way back up the shoe through the vacant sets of eyelets.
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The left (red) end is spiralled up the left side of the shoe, with the end fed under and emerging from each eyelet 3. The right (orange) lace is spiralled up the right side of the shoe, at each eyelet looping through the left (blue) lace in the middle of the shoe before feeding under and emerging from the next eyelet.
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. One end of the lace (orange end) runs straight up the right side, is fed into and runs straight across the second set of eyelets 3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before feeding in two eyelets higher up 4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time 5. At the top of the shoe, the laces end up on the same side and the shoelace knot is tied at that point.
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets 2. One end of the lace (orange end) runs straight up the right side, emerges from and runs straight across the second set of eyelets 3. The other end (red end) runs diagonally underneath and, skipping the 2nd set of eyelets, emerges from and runs straight across the 3rd set of eyelets 4. Continue running each lace diagonally across and up 2 sets of eyelets until one end (orange in my example) reaches the top right eyelet 5. The other end (red in my example) then runs straight up the left side to emerge from the top left eyelet.
1. The lace runs straight across and emerges from the third set of eyelets from the bottom 2. Both ends run straight down and are fed into the second set of eyelets from the bottom 3. Both ends again run straight down and emerge from the bottom set of eyelets 4. Both ends now run straight up along the outside and are fed into the fourth set of eyelets (the first vacant pair) 5. The ends are crossed over each other, then they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 6. Repeat step (5) until both ends reach the top.
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and is fed into rather than emerging from both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are crossed over, then inserted into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 3. This process is repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets and end up inside.
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. Skipping two sets of eyelets, cross the ends over and feed into the fourth set of eyelets 3. Both ends now run straight down one eyelet and emerge from the third set of eyelets 4. Continue up the shoe, each time crossing over and going up three sets of eyelets, then straight down to emerge from the next set of eyelets below.
1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are twisted together with one complete twist in the middle of the shoe 3. The ends then continue across to the opposite sides, where they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. This process is repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets.
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges from both bottom eyelets 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the 4th set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 3. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 5th set of eyelets 4. Cross the ends over and feed into the 2nd set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 5. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 3rd set of eyelets 6. Cross the ends over, feed under and emerge from the top set of eyelets (skip past 2 sets of eyelets).
1. The lace is run diagonally and emerges from the bottom left and the top right eyelets 2. The top (red) end of the lace is zig-zagged from the top set of eyelets down to the middle eyelets in a similar manner to the Shoe Shop Lacing 3. The bottom (orange) end of the lace is similarly zig-zagged from the bottom set of eyelets up to the middle eyelets.
1. Start with two pairs of different colour laces, preferably the wide, flat variety (I was lucky to receive two such pairs with my last runners!) 2. With one colour (orange in my example), lace the shoe using either Straight (Fashion) or Straight (Lazy) Lacing 3. With the other colour (red in my example), start at the bottom of the shoe and weave the lace in and out of the other lace until you reach the top 4. Fold around the top lace and head back down, weaving out and in until you reach the bottom 5. Continue across the shoe until you’re out of room or out of lace, whichever comes first 6. Tuck all the loose ends of the laces into the shoe.
1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges from both bottom eyelets 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the 4th set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 3. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 5th set of eyelets 4. Cross the ends over and feed into the 2nd set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 5. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 3rd set of eyelets 6. Cross the ends over, feed under and emerge from the top set of eyelets (skip past 2 sets of eyelets).
1. Take two different colour laces, each a tiny bit longer than the correct length for the shoes 2. Cut them not quite in half, but offset by two or three centimetres. See below for how to calculate the difference in length between the two halves 3. Tie one shorter piece of one colour (orange in my example) and one longer piece of the other colour (red in my example) firmly together and trim off the excess. For extra security, add a dab of glue. Use the remaining pieces to make the bi-colour lace for the other shoe 4. Pull the longer (red) end out through the bottom right eyelet, feeding from inside the shoe, until you reach the joining knot 5. Now lace the rest of the shoe as per Straight (Fashion) Lacing.
To read the full story from Professor Shoelace, click here
